Nighttime lows have dipped to 2°C (40°F?). This means heaters. Since we're at the Cooper River Marina, and we seem to have reliable shore power, we can run electric heaters in the evenings and mornings. There are a lot of steps between shore power, dock power, boat, and heater. A lot can go wrong. And sometimes it does.

Any interruption to the power can become awkward. We can muddle through a few days with the propane-powered Mr. Heater. But after that, we'd have to find someplace warmer.

A serious power interruption would trigger the bail-out plan. CA's auntie lives in Asheville, NC, just four hours from Charleston, SC. If things becomes untenable, we have a place to flee to.

We know the Asheville trip works because we celebrated Thanksgiving with CA's aunt. Goose, stuffed acorn squash, green beans, couscous. All the traditional things, right? CA's aunt is a foodie, so the envelope is pushed from traditional thanksgiving fare. We're solidly in the south, but no mac&cheese anywhere.

I don't think we can successfully run the the heaters from the batteries. The heaters pull about 10A. I think we only spend two or three hours a day charging the batteries at 5A. So that would give us about an hour of heater time.

To make things more awkwardly complicated, this happened.

That's the lever from the circuit breaker for the 110V Port-side outlets.

The starboard outlets still work nicely. For now.

We can't run both heaters on the starboard side, though. With 15A breakers, the 20A of heater would be a bad thing.

So. We're turning off the aft heater when we move to the saloon for breakfast. And turning it back on at night when we go to bed.

It's not a "problem". It's mostly a matter of making sure one is off before we turn the other on. Many things are like that on a small boat. This is one more thing to think about.

I think I have spare Sensata-Airpax Snapak T11-2-15.0A-04-20. The T11-2 tells me it has a toggle handle, single pole, circuit protection, and a "slow" trip time. 15.0A is the rating. The last two codes are seem almost silly: 04 is green, 20 is is a black panel dress nut.

I think the last two codes are important. I'm trying to get the panel to have consistent color codes for the breakers. I have a few that (still) aren't right. I really want 04/Green for things that should be on most of the time, like fresh water pumps and interior lighting. I want the 01/Black for instruments, radios, autopilot. And white for the the various exterior running lights. I need a few more greens and a few more blacks to replace some of the white toggles that are in place.

If I don't have a spare, I'll rewire the port outlets to use the fridge breaker right below it while I wait for spares to arrive. My usual vendors, Mouser and Digi-Key, have zero in stock. Online Components seems to have some on hand.

I think I'd like to order the T11S-2-15.0A-04-20-D variant with threaded screw holes for bus bars. I don't have those on hand, nor do I know how to get any. I have to drill out the hole myself. Or wait 12 weeks for Sensata to make some more for me.

Just to be sure, I stuck the camera down inside to take a picture of the AC-side breakers.

It's readable, and tells me what to look for in the bag of spare circuit breakers.